18. March 2026
Loose lead walking or PLEASE STOP PULLING!
Loose lead walking is genuinely one of the hardest things to teach both dogs and owners. It is also one of the commonest things I get asked for help with (along with on lead reactivity).
As I spend a lot of time working on this, I spend a lot of time thinking about it. And, no surprise, like every single other dog behaviour the triggers, motivations and solutions aren't just ONE THING. This is why 'no pull' equipment (especially slip leads) generally don't solve the problem; at best they just suppress it. How a dog walks on the lead is more often than not directly related to their behaviour off lead. When a client books me for recall training we always need to check how they behave ON LEAD first.
I need to add a caveat here - I don't have the scientific studies to back up what I'm writing about today. As someone who prides herself on science-based training I'm aware it's a bit of fail so I will do the research and update this blog with the results. However, anecdotal data still has value!
Why is my dog pulling on the lead?
'The outside world is really scary so if you insist we go outside, let's get this over and done with and get home!
If your dog is uncomfortable, anxious, worried or overwhelmed by the outside world then they are pulling on the lead to get you to move quicker so they can get back to their safe place. In these cases using harsh management equipment such as slip leads or choke chains will just make situation worse; not only is the dog scared of the outside world but they're now uncomfortable/in pain as well. Addressing this type of lead pulling begins in the home - it begins with building the dogs confidence, decreasing their anxiety and counter-conditioning their fears. If you need help with that, get in touch!
'The outside world is super duper exciting! Oh my goodness, what's that? Who's over there? Let's run, running is fun!'
This may seem like the opposite state of being from the previous entry but in reality it's still over-stimulation. Owners who have dogs that pull for the above reason may find some success with management equipment, especially if the dog generally has an optimistic view on life; the dog learns to put up with any discomfort and/or may slow down 'a bit' as being outside is more fun than not despite the unpleasant tightness around their necks (collars or slip leads). However many of my clients who's dogs pull like this also have no recall reliability. Of course not! These dogs want to be out in the world, sniffing and running and playing and they will be off the first chance they get! And so again, addressing this lead pulling behaviour starts in the home. It starts with skill (sometimes called obedience) training and building focus between the dog and the owner. Adolescents often are guilty of lead pulling due to over-excited motivation, but with fun and positive training you can remind your dog that you are worth listening to. If I'm working with clients in this area, teaching recall confidence goes hand in hand - if your dog can have it's off lead time to burn energy safely, it will be calmer walking on the lead.
'You can't trust the world. It needs to be watched. What was that movement?! I need to get closer. I heard a noise! Ears up, eyes forward, don't worry, dog patrol is ON, you just need to let me take charge'
This type of lead pulling trigger is similar to the first one (are we seeing pattern here?) and tends to be found in your classic guarding breeds - Dobermans, Shepherds (of any nationality), rottweilers, border collies etc. Of course this behaviour can be found in any dog but certain breeds have been selected for it. And if a dog has been bred to be watchful, alert and 'go check' anything new it can be a bit trickier to change the behaviour. We have to come at from a different view point and understanding - from the dog's point of view, it has a job to do and it is doing it. However, constant horizon scanning is stressful for the dog and not conducive to a relaxing walk. I will always start with re-visiting or teaching basic training, ensuring that the dog and owner are communicating correctly. It's helps to give dogs in this class of pulling an alternative job to do. Maybe they have a 'special ball' that must be carried, watched and transported back home safely. The ball can be put down at times (sniffing is absolutely encouraged) but it must be located again - especially if something/someone is approaching - keep the ball safe in your mouth! This is just an example of the type of exercise I use for 'hyper vigilant' dogs. Having a job they can do that results in praise from you helps calm them and so slows their pulling.
'I'm happy walking next to you, no pulling from me OH MY GOODNESS THERES A DOG/HUMAN/GOOD SNIFF LETS GET OVER THERE!'
You may see this type of pulling from younger dogs (although it can be found in all ages) and can be a bit more risky as the 'pull' happens quickly and can catch an owner off guard. This is behaviour is often borne from frustration that the owner just won't let them go investigate! It is a learnt behaviour as the dog tries to problem solve a problem the owner has inadvertently given them. It is potentially one of the easier pulling issues to solve (depending on how young the dog is, and how long they've been practising the behaviour) and it involves some consideration from the owner. We get to go out in the world whenever we want; our dogs have to rely on us and the set times we take them. If you view a walk as purely a YOU exercise and the dog is incidental, you're going to see the dog displaying this kind of behaviour. When it comes to having sniffs, allow your dog to spend as much time as possible engaging in this behaviour. There is another caveat here; I'm only human and like you I do not have all the time in the world. There are points where unfortunately I cannot allow my dogs the luxury of sniffing all the smells. To help with this I've taught them both the 'quick quick' instruction. It informs them that we need to walk briskly, no stopping and sniffing unfortunately. It gives them context and information that sniffs WILL be allowed in the future but just not now. As for pulling towards other dogs and people on walks there is a simple solution - we teach our dogs how to respond to a 'heel' or 'steady' instruction. Both mean different levels of 'walk next to me' and if you've taught it correctly your dog will understand it means 'yes, you can go see that dog/person but only if you are walking nicely'. Both these skills are part of the essential training that I include in my puppy training packages.
These are the commonest reasons I come across for dogs pulling on the lead - I've not covered a chase response (dogs pulling towards joggers/bikes) as I'll cover that in my blog on reactivity. Check back soon for that as well quick tips and training you can do with your dog-masquerading-as-a-draught-horse!